Under the Coach or in the Compartments: holding tanks and valves,  water pump (even if inside), water tank and external supply systems, spare tire, door step, gas tank & sensor, exhaust system, the battery compartment, batteries and battery isolator, 110 volt docking cord, 110 volt generator and compartment and the access panels for the refrigerator, hot water heater and forced hot air heater.
 

Click on the to go to its Tip:
	Holding Tank Gate Valves
	Dragging or Replacing the Holding Tank Valves
	Awkward Holding Tank Dump Valves
	Electric Step not retracting and how it works
	Electric Step Fuse
	Electric Step Models
	Electric Step Switch and Parts
	Power Step Joints
	How to Manually Retract the Step
	Replacement Step
	What is the best House Battery solution: 6 or 12 volt, 1 or 2 batteries?
	Batteries -- Need wiring diagram.
	Battery Isolator, Troubleshooting and Replacement.
	Sliding Tray for Golf-Cart Batteries
	External 110 Power Reverse Polarity
	Pig Tail 50 AMP to 30 AMP
	Voltage Booster for Low Campground 110 Voltage
	Leveling Jacks - HWH Hydraulic
	Leveling Jacks - A&E Electric
	Hanging Wires
	Gas Tank, Fuel Gauge Sensor & Fuel Pump
	Gas Gage Accuracy (off Page link)
	Fuel Tank Capacity
	Gas Tank and Gas lines
	Gas Tank Filler Neck
	Exhaust System Wrap to cool things down
	Exhaust System Replacement
	Catalytic Converter
	Generator Over-Voltage
	Generator Fuel Line
	Generac  Generator
	Honda Generator Won't Start
	Honda Generator Removal for service
	Water Heater Gas Burner & Replacement
	Refrigerator Gas Burner
	Keeping Gas Burners Clean and Bug free
	Flat Tire?  Use the Air Bag Compressor to fill it up. (off page link)
	Flat Tire - How to change it
	Spare Tire - Lowering and Raising
	Fresh-Water Gauge
	Water Pump Replacement 1
	Water Pump Replacement 2
	Recycling Grey Water
	Running Gear Tips: Front & Rear Suspension, Wheels, Tires, Brakes etc. (off page link)

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Subject:  Dragging or Replacing the Holding Tank Valves

Question:  The Holding Tank Valve is very low and I am afraid I may bump it when I am on the road.

Answer:  A number of Aero Cruiser owners have reworked their gray/black water dump valve and managed to raise it a few inches. They differ from coach to coach, so its a matter of looking at it and figuring out how to save some space. I whacked mine once backing into a campsite on the Blue Ridge Parkway.   What a pain. I just "Rube Goldberged" it together on the road with epoxy and didn't raise it any at the time. Some years later I had to rebuild it and I managed to raise it about an inch.

The black ASB pipes, "Y" connector, elbow and ASB Cement are all standard plumbing items you can get at any good hardware store. When I assembled mine I trimmed the connectors down as much as I could to give me more ground clearance.  

The holding tank valves and the adapters to the pipes and fittings are also a standard part you can pick up at any good RV Shop.  

When I replaced the two valves in my rig, the new ones came with plated steel bolts and nuts.  The old ones had brass bolts and nuts which were, much to my surprise, not corroded at all.   They were easy to remove, so I used the same brass bolts and nuts to reassemble everything.
Keep on Cruisin' -- Tom Heald
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Subject:  Awkward Holding Tank Dump Valves
 
Tip:  Some coaches have their dump valves installed in such a way that requires acrobatics to operate. Bruce suggested installation of solenoid operated valves available at RV stores for easy remote operation.
 
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Subject:  Electric Step not retracting and how it works

Tip 1:  The first thing to try is the "Step" switch on the instrument panel to the left of the searing wheel.  It controls whether the
(1) step opens and closes every time the side door is opened and closed or
(2) weather the step stays down until the rig is started with the side door closed.
Start your rig, close the side door and see if changing the switch makes any difference. 
Keep on Cruisin', Tom Heald

Tip 2:  Don't know if you step is up? Ken installed a NAPA door jamb switch (DJ6300) on the rear of the coach step bracket and a VDO green warning light (600 845) on the dash. If the step does not retract and open the switch, then the green light is on when he starts the Engine.
#215 Stahl

Update:  Sometimes the coach step would not retract and sometimes, it would not extend. The door jamb switch which controls the step, located on the right side of the door jamb, near the bottom was in contact at the back of the switch on the frame. With the switch making contact, the step control thought the door was still open. So, Ken installed some insulation around the back of the switch. So far, the step is working.
#215 Stahl
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Subject:  Electric Step Fuse
 
Tip:  The electric step is controlled by a 5 amp fuse. It the fuse burns, replace with the same rating. Do not install higher rated fuse.
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Subject:  Electric Step Models

Tip:  At the last rally we discovered the Aero Cruisers have three different models of Electric Steps. They all have different mechanical parts and control boxes. Quick reference is to check color of the control box. white, blue, or orange. Big help when looking for replacement Parts!
#102 Kinnison
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Subject:  Electric Step Switch and Parts
 
Question:  Well, I've tried 2 supply stores looking for a replacement switch for my electric step.  Trouble is knowing what the heck to ask for. I've not been successful in trying, even asking for info on the "kwickee" step. Maybe you know how to get to the right place???  --Tom
 
Answer:  This may be your switch, as I have this kind:  http://www.kwikee.com/Images/905307.jpg  Here are all their switches:  http://www.kwikee.com/Aparts_steps.html#switch  Note that that is at www.kwickee.com.  You can click on each switch to see the picture.  Beware that some of those switches are closed unless activated (by the matching magnet) and others are open until activated.  You must get the right one.  Best is to report to them the color of the control box and that it is a 1989-or-so vintage, so you get the right one. Probably won't cost much even from Kwickee.  
--Frank

Update:  Just wanted to let you know that my switch is different.  I found the switch I need after much sweating over the computer. It's a Honeywell micro switch which is no longer manufactured and no replacement is made.  All distributors are out of them except "Electrol" which has 48 of  'em on their shelf and they are $75.00 each.  Ain't that a good 'un??  The supplier is "www.electrolsupply.com", and the phone# is (800)663-6576.
Tom Even

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Subject:  Power Step Joints
 
Tip:  Make sure you lubricate the Power Step joints routinely to keep it moving free.
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Subject:  How to Manually Retract the Step
 
Tip:  The first thing to do is to check for a blown fuse and then try the switch in different positions as explained in the tip above. In the short run to get the steps back in, you can remove the cotter pin then knock out the pin that connects the gear box to the lever on the step unit and tie the step up. From there you would need to troubleshoot to determine if the problem is electrical or mechanical. When my steps did this, I found the motor to be the problem. I took it apart, polished the armature and cleaned the gaps between the copper bars. When I put it back together I had to reset the armature end play using the allen head set screw.
Good Luck!!!
Walter 
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Subject:  Replacement Step
 
Tip:  If you have the original that came with the A-C and it stoped working, it may have finally died.  The ones produced the late 80s - early 90s were a little anemic. Kwikee Step in Oregon has a rebuild kit with a better, more robust motor and new electronics.  But for about $20 more, you can get a new unit out of Camping World.
-=Dale=-
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Subject:  What is the best House Battery solution: 6 or 12 volt, 1 or 2 batteries?

Question:  A friend of mine said to replace my 2 bad house batteries with two 6 volt rather then two 12 volt. Said the amp hours are longer. Anyone else done this?

Answer:  Using two 6 volt Deep-Cycle batteries hooked up in series is a good solution; but it tends to be a bit expensive. There is a common misconception that two 6-volt 200 amp-hour batteries used in series will double the amp-hours available. This is not true. It will double the available power (watts) but not the amps.

Remember back in your high-school science class the formula W = V*A? That's Watts = Volts * Amps. One 6-volt battery times 200 amp-hour = 1200 watt-hours, times 2 batteries = 2400 watt-hours. One 12-volt, 200 amp-hour battery = 2400 watt-hours.  Each setup will deliver the same amp-hours and wattage given the stated ratings.

Using two 12 volt Deep-Cycle batteries hooked up in parallel will also work as long as the batteries remain a matched pair. In this case you will get the total amp-hours of both batteries. For example: 12 volts times 130 amp-hours = 1560 times 2 = 3120 watt-hours. The problem is that as they grow older and one battery becomes slightly weaker, it will draw down the other battery even with no external load from the camper. This constant load will cause one or both to fail much faster than they might under a normal load. A standard battery isolator won't solve the problem because both batteries share the same load.  You could design one, but I don't think it is worth the effort.

So, contrary to the myth, two 12 volt, 130 amp-hour batteries will deliver more power than two 6 volt, 200 amp-hour batteries.  A "good" salesman may tell you that's a load of bologna; however, any "honest" salesman will tell you it's true.

My preference is to install the largest 12 volt Deep-Cycle battery I can find.  One with the most amp-hours, that will fit in the available space. It will cost less than either of the other solutions, deliver about the same power and almost certainly last longer than two 12 volt batteries in parallel; probably 2 to 3 times longer.
 

Number and Type of Deep-Cycle Batteries Used	Amp Hours at 12 Volts	Watt Hours	Approximate Cost
2 - 6 volt 200 amp hour Batteries	200	2400	$200
2 - 12 volt 130 amp hour Batteries	260	3120	$150
1 - 12 volt 210 amp hour Battery	210	2520	$90

My personal experience:  When I purchased my 1990 Aero Cruiser in 1996 it had two 12 volt coach batteries, both dead.  When I removed, charged and tested them, one was good and one bad.  I replace the bad one and one year later they were both bad.

Almost the whole time they were sitting in the driveway with the charger on, which was a mistake.  I unplug the coach and put it on a timer so it only run the charger for an hour a day and then I replaced the house batteries with two identical 130 amp-hours (if memory serves) 12 volt Deep-Cycle batteries.  They lasted 3 years which is the low end of a batteries 3 to 5 year life expectancy.  

Not happy, I checked around for two 6 volt Deep-Cycle batteries.  I found a pair of 200 amp-hour batteries for about $100 each if I remember correctly.  While talking to various sales people I received both stories on the amp-hours, so I did the math myself and went out and bought one large 12 volt Deep-Cycle 210 amp-hour battery for under $90 that takes up the same space as the 2 smaller 12 volters.  That was back in 2003 and it is still working in 2011.

So what is the difference between a "Good" salesman and an "Honest" one?  Well, it's all in the eyes of the beholder!  After all, the "Good" salesman is always beholding to the sales manager! 
Keep on Cruisin', Tom Heald

Update: 
In my 1990 23' rear bath model with the slide out battery compartment to the right of the main entrance door, I use a 12 Volt Group 24 (11" Length x 6 3/4" width x 9 1/2" height) for the truck battery and a 12V Group 29M (13" Length x 6 3/4" width x 9 1/2" height) for the coach battery both running lengthwise with a 13" 4x4 and some thin shims to fill the 4" gap between them so they won't move around.

As an alternative there is room for 2 Group 24M batteries length wise next to the single Group 24 truck battery taking up all of the remaining room. They can be 2 - 6 volt batteries in series or 2 - 12 volt batteries in parallel.  The pros & cons of each of the three options are explained above.
Keep on Cruisin', Tom Heald
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Subject: Batteries -- Need wiring diagram.
 
Question: Hi, I'm in need of a wiring diagram for my 23' Cruiser. Some how before I got it the cables to the batteries were replaced and I don't think that they put back were in the right order. I have to use BATT Boost every time to start the engine, or generator.  Thanks for any help you can give me. Tim Meyer

Answer: It's pretty straight forward. Each of the batteries go to a CB (a round self resetting circuit breaker) then the Battery isolator and the two large relays in the Coach Electrical Box (the Ignition and Crossover relays) found in one of three places:
  *  the Front Compartment under the Hood or
  *  inside the cabinet under the Refrigerator or
  *  under the interior front Step. 
The first thing to check is if all the batteries are charging correctly.  If yes, then you can assume that everything from the Battery isolator to the batteries is ok and look on the other half of the circuit for the problem.  You can trace all of it out with a meter by following the wires under the coach and look for a loose or dirty connection along the way.  Go here for the wiring diagram of the Coach and Truck Batteries.
Keep on Cruisin' -- Tom Heald
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Subject:  Battery Isolator, Troubleshooting and Replacement.
 
Tip:  My batteries were dead and I had an appointment to get it serviced.  Bummer!  To troubleshoot the problem I grabbed my voltage meter and crawled under my rig beneath the passenger compartment.  

With the engine running and no AC power to the coach, I checked the voltage and had 14+ volts coming into the center post of the Battery Isolator; however, the battery side showed low voltages -- 10 or so volts indicating a dead battery.  I charged the batteries and they held there charge.  I drove it around and then checked again.  Everything worked ok and did no give me any more problems and when I checked it later with the engine running, I had 14+ volts on the center post coming from the alternator and 14- volts on the battery sides.  Just as it should be when charging.  

Note:  The red wire seen in the pictures is an add-on.  It goes to a post I added under the front hood so I can hook my generator's battery charger up to the house battery there.  

The Battery Isolator consists of two diodes inside a sealed unit.  Its job is to allow current to flow from the alternator to each battery while stopping any flow between the House Battery and the Truck Battery circuits.  It is a solid-state device.  There is nothing to stick and there is no ground to the Isolator except at the batteries.  My conclusion.  There must have a been a bad connection inside the Battery Isolator which is a solid-state unit sealed with epoxy.  Just to be on the safe side, I ordered a new unit -- NOCO IGD140HP Grey 140 Amp High-Performance Battery Isolator for $35.34 on Amazon in 2012. 

I had no more problems over the next several months.  It was some time before I decided to install the new Battery Isolator.  The new unit has an extra post that is not used on the Aero Cruiser it is for some alternators found on more resent trucks.  The unit is larger than the old one but fit into the same location.  The only problem, the connecting posts were larger so I had to drill out the connectors to fit.  I should have clamped the connector to a backing board when drilling so the drill wouldn't catch and twist off the connector.  I didn't and had to replace one connector.  I believe the larger posts are required by law on newer units.  The older 120 amp Sure Power 1202 Battery Isolator I replaced had smaller connecting posts.  It is still available online though it is a bit more expensive and is prone to this problem. 
Keep on cruisin', Tom Heald
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Subject:  Sliding Tray for Golf-Cart Batteries

Tip:  My Cruiser was modified by the prior owner. He moved the 12v engine battery elsewhere and put two 6v golf-cart batteries in the original compartment just in front of the entry door, under the third chair, to supply coach power. He made a non-sliding box to hold those two (taller) batteries. It was a pain to get water into the batteries. I found on eBay a sliding tray made by Kwikee: product #905700010, which is shown in the first picture, along with a pair of aluminum channel supports, a thin floor, and two strong side supports.

The space I had to work with is shown in the next photo to the right, with the support box installed.


Then with the tray extended: I had to trim the fiberglass below about 1/8th inch to get enough depth for these tall batteries:

And finally, box painted black, permanently installed, and loaded with the batteries:

Not a bad solution. Now I will be more faithful at adding water!

P.S. Because the golf-cart batteries are so tall, I had to trim the lower fiberglass about 1/8 inch to allow the tray to come out. That also means I have to remove the door and its frame (four screws) to slide the batteries out, as shown. This tray would also work for the original (shorter, 12v) batteries, but the floor would not have to be so deep and there might be enough room for the tray to come out without having to remove the door. Someone else will have to try that.
--Frank DeRemer

Update:  The original plastic, sliding battery tray in my 1990 Aero Cruiser measures 14" deep, 18" wide and provides 10 inches of clearance for standard sized batteries.  Franks tray is 13 3/4" wide x 13" deep and can accommodate batteries that are 11" tall.  
Keep on Cruisin', Tom Heald
 
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Subject:  External 110 Power Reverse Polarity

Tip:  Although shock from the improperly wired receptacle itself is not likely, it can be dangerous for an RV connected to a power source with reverse polarity. If the power source is not correctly wired, your RV itself can become “hot”, which means you could become a conductor if you were to touch your coach while walking around the outside. Obviously this could cause serious injury or even death under certain circumstances.

Another risk is that the safety mechanism on an electrical device connected to a reverse polarity source of power may not kick in, which could cause serious injury. For example, a power tool may start automatically as soon as it’s plugged into the improperly wired receptacle or it may not shut off when you try turning it off.

Before you hook up to any unknown power source, you should use a circuit tester to check for correct wiring. Plug the tester into all the receptacles – both top and bottom – for an accurate reading. You should always test the outlet before hooking up, but if you’ve already plugged in, unplug your RV and don’t use the outlet until it’s repaired. Make sure to report the problem to the campground owner at once.
Good Sam
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Subject:  Pig Tail 50 AMP to 30 AMP
 
Tip:  When traveling in summer time, you may come to a park with inadequate 30 AMP service if everyone has their air conditioning on. It is suggested you get a 50 to 30 AMP pigtail so you can actually use the park’s 50- amp circuit, which is less likely to be overloaded.
dragi
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Subject:  Voltage Booster for Low Campground 110 Voltage
 
Answer:  Elizabeth writes: I met Frank Izbinski who lives in my town and thought he had an interesting product, Voltage Booster for RV’s. Toll Free 888- 624-3347. He will be selling at his booth at the Quartzsite swap meet. Since I don’t know anything about this stuff I thought I would pass the information along for you guys to check out. www.voltagebooster.com
#139 Haynes
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Subject:  Leveling Jacks - HWH Hydraulic

Tip 1:  Ken had a spring break on one of the HWH Hydraulic Leveling Kickdown Jacks, 110 Series. He went to www.hwhcorp.com, then technical information, repair parts manual, jacks, kick-down and finally AP7129. The replacement is R6824 spring kit 1.5” x 10”. The kit contains two springs and retaining pin. The cost was $12.21, plus shipping of $4.90. Installation is relatively easy. The replacement springs are 1'’ shorter, so requires some muscle.

In the retracted position, pull pin and remove springs. First, need to twist the spring to break the paint. Install the two new springs and pin. Using some nylon line and a “loggers hitch knot” with one end to the spring and the other to the coach frame, he pulled the spring into place and slipped the spring end into the hole on the foot. Slick!
#215 Stahl
 
Tip 2:  Rick bought spring replacements from HWH (#R6824 Spring Kit 1.5” X 10”) for his leveling jacks. Cost $12.00 per pair plus shipping.

Ken Stahl wrote in a tech tip back in 2003 (Report #034, Nov 2003, page 14), how to change the springs. His technique for stretching the springs to snap onto the jack’s foot required the knowledge of tying a lumberman’s knot or something like that. Anytime Rick hears of a complicated knot he just adds three or four more granny knots!

The job turned out very easy (even for him!). He got a ratchet tie down strap, tied one end around a stationary part of ole’ Aero then made a 6” loop of nylon line hooked to the spring and the hook of the ratchet tie down. After tightening the ratchet to stretch the spring opposite the slot on the jack’s foot, he twisted the open end of the spring into the slot then took a knife and cut the nylon loop with the springs snapping into place.

Make another nylon loop and repeat. Worked slicker than snot.
#101 Krafft
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Subject:  Leveling Jacks - A&E Electric
 
Tip:  For those needing replacements for A&E electric levelers, check the following link: http://www.powerpluslevelers.com/prodctr/aejack/aejack.html or call Power Plus at 800-934-6585. They have a direct replacement for Mark II and V leveling jacks.

#375 DeRemer
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Subject:  Hanging Wires
 
Tip:  Everyone should get under their coach periodically and check for any hanging wires or wire bundles. The one with a significant risk is the cable connecting the battery to the generator. It may be laying over the drive shaft and rubbing against it. Look for the broken wire ties and replace them if necessary. Make sure you use black wire ties. They last longer than the white ones.
#462 Wachtell
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Subject: Gas Tank, Fuel Gauge Sensor & Fuel Pump
 
Question:  Do you know if any of the Vironex Chassis had fuel-injected engines or if the LGS Chassis had carbureted engines? It appears from the fuel tank shop  drawings that fuel-injected engines were first installed when the LGS Chassis was introduced. The shop drawing dated 1-24-89 indicates a change for the LGS Chassis.  J. D. Whistler, '88-1989 23' Rear Bath
 
Answer:  I don't know but I believe the manufacture used whatever was in stock when it built the chassis.  So when they switched from Vironex to LGS Chassis any carbureted engines on hand were probably used; however, the majority of the LGS Chassis have the fuel-injected engines.
 
Tip:  I finally found my stuff on the gasoline tank. The tank is manufactured by the Tankcraft Corp. The tank came ready to install.  

1) Tank Part No. 3011784 came with a fuel gauge sensor for the carbureted 360 engine which has a mechanical fuel pump.   In the picture above note that the short fuel line is for the generator, the two longer ones are for the feed to the fuel pump and the return line.  They are long enough to reach 35 gallons of fuel, leaving 5 gallons to prevent any sediment from being sucked up.

2) Tank Part No. 3012040 comes with the fuel gauge sensor and electric fuel pump mounted on it for the 360 fuel-injected engine. 

Tankcraft made me a tank Part No. 3011784 in 1994. It had developed a multitude of pin holes. I had to go through a local tank supplier to buy it. It cost $275.00 plus $17.80 tax in 1995. I picked it up at the factory. I still have the old tank and fuel gauge sensor. The sensor is stamped with "Tankcraft 90 OHM - 1985," but no part number.

Tankcraft Corporation
N2900 Foundry Road
Darien, WI 53114
Telephone: +1 262 882 2500  Fax: +1 262 882 2501
http://www.tankcraftcorp.com/contact/

If I could use a computer like Tom Heald, I would send you a copy of the tank shop drawing. Tom sure does an outstanding job as Webmaster. I'm lucky to be able to send an E-mail.   
 J. D. Whistler, '88-1989 23' Rear Bath
J.D.  Thanks for the drawing, picture etc. Tom
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Subject:  Fuel Tank Capacity 
 
Tip:  If you would like to know what the capacity of your gas tank is, measure and multiply width by height by length (in inches) and divide by 230. That will give you total gallons. Subtract 10% for expansion and that will give you net capacity. Since the gas gage sensor is mounted in the middle of the tank, the gas gage may show more or less depending on how level your coach is at a given moment.

Update:  You may have heard an ugly rumor how Dragi ran out of gas on the way to Quartzsite. For the record, that is not true. In reality, I was running an experiment to see how much gas our tanks really hold so I could share that information with the rest of our members.

The label on the tank shows capacity as 40 gallons. That may be if you stand it on end but in its present position, it holds 32 gallons. On the way back, when the gage read 1/4 tank, I filled it up again and it took 28 gallons. In reality, I had only 1/8th of the tank left. That tells me don’t let it get below 1/4 tank.

My sincere thanks to Wright Benson and Trish for taking me to the gas station so I can complete this valuable research and report the results to you.
#212 Petrovich
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Subject:  Gas Tank and Gas lines

Tip:  1990 (1988 Chassis) Gas Tank

The fuel pump (mechanical) on my Dodge engine just wasn't working right. I
changed it out, added new fuel filters...it was still hard to start, turning
over forever before starting. In some cases I even started "priming the carb"
go get it going.  My driveway is on a slant, the gas lines would go dry. Why?

Finally, I removed the gas tank. Two steel straps. Found that at the the top
of the tank are a set of fittings, connected with rubber hose. The rubber hose
gas line had cracked, thus the fuel pump was sucking air . I replaced the
rubber lines.

I also cut an access hole in the floor: now I can get at the top of the tank
where the connections are. Oh... the car no longer smells like gas all the time
either!
George Baldwin
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Subject:  Gas Tank Filler Neck
 
Tip:  If you need to replace yours, go to a Toyota dealer and make sure that there is an insert for the small gas pump nozzles. This is one of the items checked during emission test.
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Subject:  Exhaust System Wrap to cool things down
 
Tip:  On our 1989 Aero Cruiser I had installed a deeper transmission pan that had vents to draw air through the pan to keep oil cooler. Ran into the problem in that the right side exhaust cuts across to the left directly in front of were the cooling vents of the oil pan is located.

Went to local NAPA and purchased 15 feet of 1" exhaust wrap to cover this area.

To get the Aero Cruiser ready to work under, I first went and purchased a couple 12,000# drive up ramps to give me room to work. Chalked rear wheels and used jack stands for safety. This made it much easier to work under the coach.

I read the directions enclosed in packet and wrapped the section in front of the oil pan. 15 feet doesn't go far but did cover the cross over section. To secure the wrap I used two 2.5" stainless steel worm drive band clamps.

I told a co-worker what I did the next day and he said he had an extra 50 foot roll of 2" wrap he had gotten from Summit racing supply. I bought it from him.

That evening, with the Aero Cruiser still up on the ramps, I got under with the new roll, utility knife and two more band clamps.

Starting on the LEFT side, I unrolled about 15 feet of the roll (without cutting) and begin wrapping it around the exhaust until I had wrapped it loosely about 40 times.
Taking the end up to the bottom of the manifold, I used a band clamp to secure. Then the process of moving the wrap into position around the exhaust pipe. I used a 1" (half the width of the wrap) overlap since I had 50 feet and pulled tight as I went.
When I figured I had enough to get just past the point where the right side joins the left, I cut the wrap and finished the left side. Using a band clamp to hold temporarily.
Then to the right side following the same process. I went down to the cross over area and stopped (where I had placed the 1" x 15' section) instead of trying to do the whole length at one time. It cost me one more clamp but made it easier to deal with a shorter length of wrapping material.

Then from there to the joint area and then back to the catalytic converter, overlapping the wrap from the left side.  Project took about two hours.  Results were a quieter cabin, cooler temperatures in engine compartment, starter doesn't get as hot, vented transmission pan gets cooler air.

Price of whole project under $100. Difficulty level 3 out of 10.
Rod Michaelson, '89 rear bath
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Subject:  Exhaust System Replacement

Tip:  If you ever replace your exhaust system you have a chance to correct some engineering problems with the original system.  The Aero Cruiser's exhaust system is too close to the starter motor and the transmission.  As a result both suffer heat-transfer problems because of it.  Make sure the company who replaces the system is aware of these problems.

1. The pipes coming of the header needs to be a little bit longer and angled outward to give more air space between the starter motor and the exhaust pipe.  See Tip "Starter Overheating" for more information.
2. The crossover pipe should be father away from the transmission without going over the oil pan area.
3. Leave enough room around the transmission so you can install a 4 inch deep oil pan pan onto the transmission.   See the picture on Tip on "Exhaust System Wrap to cool things down".  Even if you don't install a deeper oil pan, you want to leave the room for cooling.  It may save you a burnt out transmission.

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Subject:  Catalytic Converter
 
Tip:  If you need to install or replace your existing catalytic converter, it was suggested that you are better off going to a reputable muffler shop rather than going to the Chrysler dealer.
Kinnison
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Subject:  Generator Over-Voltage 
 
Question:  My Generac 5200 is putting out 147 volts. Anyone know if that means a simple replacement of an output voltage regulator? Thanks, --Frank
 
Answers:  From several members.
Warning: An over voltage situation can blow the circuit boards in the Refrigerator, Air Conditioning, Microwave and anything else electronic even when these units are turned off.    So I would check the voltage with a load, then disconnect the load and check it again (it may read higher).  Just to be on the safe side, I would adjust it without a load first (to make sure your are adjusting it down) and then fine tune it with the load attached.  If you need a "Safe" load to adjust it, use a 100 watt bulb or something you don't mind replacing.

Never tune the generator's engine, adjust the carburetor or "GOOSE IT" with the coach load attached.  Doing this can lead a grown man to cry, become very agitated and cost a lot of bucks!
Keep on Cruisin' Tom Heald

The Generac output voltage regulator IS adjustable. there is a screw potentiometer on the regulator body. It is located inside the generator fuse panel and is easy to get to. That being said, there are quite a few 120V and 12V lines in there that can be grounded by a misplaced screwdriver. 

I was able to adjust mine a few times before it had to be replaced. There are several part numbers that superseded my old one.

Note: The regulator is mounted on the back wall of the box that is revealed when you removed the screws holding the two breakers.  It has 4 bolts holding it to the wall.  The adjuster is on the front face.
Rick

Warning: Wrap your screw driver with 3 rounds of electrical tape.  UL approved tape is 50V dielectric un-stretched.  Also check the governor's operation.  If it is allowing the genny to over speed, you will get too high a voltage.
-=Dale=-
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Subject:  Generator Fuel Line
 
Tip:  Inspect the fuel line going to the carburetor. A number of them have been found with severe cracking and gas leaking onto a potentially hot surface. These hoses wear with time and should be replaced.
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Subject:  Generac  Generator
 
Tip 1:  If your Generac  generator fails, take a look at the relay which seldom fails but it could. More likely culprit may be the oil pressure switch or just low oil.

Tip 2:  Here is a copy of the Diagnostic & Repair Manual for the Generac  Generator courtesy of George Baldwin.  and some pointers from Frank:
Generac Diagnostic Manual
Generac Technical Information Manual
 
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Subject:  Honda Generator Won't Start 
 
Question:  I few weeks ago I was going to go out in the Aero Cruiser and thought I would check out the systems.

The generator hadn't been run all winter so I tried to start it up. Since the house battery was low as I cranked the generator engine the starter started to drag and it didn't quite start but was trying. So I put a battery charger on the house battery and plugged the coach into the 110 Volt receptacle.

The next day after a good charge on the house battery I tried again. It tried to start but at one point just before it started it shut down and would not start again. I still had the coach attached to shore power and thought that might have been the problem so I disconnected and tried again.

No luck. It will crank just fine but won't even try to start. Any suggestions before I take it to the Honda generator repair shop?
 
Answer:  Suggestions from Members:

1. Check oil. A low sensor will stop the genny. -=Dale=-
2. Check fuel filter. All it takes is one large particle to clog such a small filter.
   -=Dale=-
3. I had the same trouble, the fuel pump was working, which is evidenced by the clicking noise of the unit. what you then have to do is prime the pump, disconnect the tank side of the fuel filter, run a line to a gas can, or somehow fill up the fuel filter, and see if it will start. If it indeed does, then you know the trouble. stop generator, fill fuel filter, reconnect, and start. This should solve the trouble.  Andy
4. The most popular problem with all 20-year-old generators seems to be gas lines. Check the short one right at the carburetor for cracks. The engine could be sucking air rather than gasoline. I am wondering if my long line to the tank may also need to be replaced, as it is always slow firing, even though I exercise it every two weeks. --Frank

Replaced the 5/16" fuel hose that was cracked through. The hose was old and as Frank said twenty year old hoses are going to create problems.

I replaced the last 18 inches of fuel hose (hole in old hose was at the 90 degree 6 inches from the filter inlet).

Purchased 2 feet of Goodyear 5/16" fuel injection hose, 5/16" brass double barb splice fitting, two small hose clamps, a short length of shrink tubing, and about 24 inches of wire loom cover and some wire ties.

Took the cover off that fills the space between the door and the generator so I could access the fuel hose from above. Cut back the hose with a good utility knife blade back about 18 inches.

Using the heat shrink cover the area of the hose where the hose comes in at a 90 degree from the right side of the generator. I used about 4 inches of the heat shrink to protect the hose from rubbing through like the old one had.

Install the barb fitting after installing the hose clamps on each side and push all the way on. Tighten clamps.

Use the wire loom cover to cover the hose from the frame up to the 90 you installed the heat shrink on.

I sucked the fuel line up to the end of the hose. (Don't try if you don't like the taste of gasoline). Then installed the hose to the fuel filter and tightened clamp. Make sure the fuel filter is clear. This is easy to check by blowing through from the barbed side to the treaded side. It should have no resistance. If it does, change the filter.

Crank engine for 10 seconds and then wait 20 seconds, then repeat. Do not over heat the starter by cranking too long.

I used silicone spray on the old and new hoses and in the whole engine compartment. Silicone spray is your best friend for all plastic and rubber parts on your motorhome.

Good luck and hope if you have generator problems it is as easy to fix as this was.
Rod Michaelson, '89 23 foot rear bath
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Subject:  Honda Generator Removal for service
 
Tip:  The generator in my rig is a Honda EV4010 liquid cooled generator set.  I pulled the generator set the other night. It wasn't too bad. For me anyway. It does come out the hatch on the side just to let you know. Pretty easy actually. 

1. Shut off the batteries at the switch in front of the coach. 
   
2. Unbolt the exhaust from the bottom. 4 bolts with a bracket. 
   
3. Remove the 3 bolts attaching the frame to the Generator base plate. 
   
4. Remove 12V DC supply line to the Generator. Located on the left side of the generator by the start switch. 
   
5. Cut the zip ties holding to the AC seal tight conduit. 
   
6. If you have foam still attached to the bottom of the base plate, it must be pulled loose to slide the generator out. 
   
7. Slide the generator out enough to gain clearance to the AC output cover on the side of the generator. 
   
8. Remove AC cover and cut the white wire, pull the red wire for the back of the switch, and release the ground by pulling the screw out of its eyelet. 
   
9. Push the seal tight conduit under the base plate to allow clearance to slide out the generator set. 
   Caution: The Honda generator set weighs over 200 lbs. So you probably will need a partner to help or a scissor jack table to get it down to the ground. Unless your a big guy like me. I'll need help putting it back in though that's for sure. 
   
10. Pull out generator. 
    
11. If you have to move the coach disconnect the 12V DC at the solenoid. Or at least tape up the end of it so it doesn't ground out. 

I have pictures on my cell phone to submit to the shared knowledge data base if its desired? I found that the radiator has a blown core. So I'm trying to get it fixed. Luckily its a Brass unit and is repairable. I was afraid it was aluminum. New is $465 MSRP. The lowest I've found on the internet was $419. 

Word of caution:  Change out the Radiator fluid in the gen-set if you have the Honda and haven't done it in a while. Don't go by the hours as a maintenance guide if its been over 5 years. If the prior owner would have done that I wouldn't be going though all this. I had planned on changing it myself this spring. But its too late now. And probably too late when I bought it. More to come. As it unravels. 
Jack
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Subject:  Water Heater Gas Burner & Replacement
 
Tip 1:  Ralf reported that his igniter on the water heater would not work. Closer examination revealed carbon buildup on the electrode, which prevented the spark from forming and igniting, the propane. Cleaning the electrode solved the problem.
#203 Loveland
 
Tip 2:  Speaking of water heaters, if you have to replace yours, try removing it from the inside before you start removing the seal and face from the outside. Rick reported that he was able to remove his from the inside, which was a relatively simple task.
#101 Krafft
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Subject:  Refrigerator Gas Burner
 
Tip:  Frank showed the remains of his refrigerator gas burner, which had a rusty open hole where serrations used to be. Normally, the propane comes through the serrations at the tip of the burner and forms a uniform wide flame. In this case he was getting round flame that couldn’t heat the thermal exchanger properly and the refrigerator did not work well. Replacing the burner tube took care of the problem.
Frank 
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Subject:  Keeping Gas Burners Clean and Bug free
 
Tip:  We all know how much spiders love making webs in the flame tubes of the water heater and refrigerator. One way to discourage them from taking occupancy is to take a small medicine bottle and punch a few holes in the cover. Place some moth balls inside the bottle and close it. Place one bottle in the water heater compartment and one in the refrigerator compartment close to the gas burners.
#212 Petrovich 
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Subject: Flat Tire - How to change it
 
Tip:  OK, Everybody knows how to change a flat tire; you call your road service.  If you have one and they can make it in an hour or two.  If not you can change it yourself if you have planned ahead. 

If you rig has levelers, use them to get the tire off the road; if not, you have to use the 5 ton hydraulic jack that came with all Aero Cruisers.   Except, it does not have enough reach to get the tire off the road when it is flat!

First make sure you chock the other wheels with wedges or blocks of wood so the rig won't roll when you jack it up.  Next place the jack under the frame where the springs attach and jack it up.  Then place the standoffs under the frame by the springs, reposition the jack under the axel and take it up the rest of the way.  It is a two step process;  if you don't have anything to hold the frame up so you can reposition the jack, see the note below.  I carry two aluminum Standoffs that I used to use for a tent trailer. They are 12 inches high and have a center screw that can be raised another 8 inches or so.  I have used them twice, because it was faster and easer than waiting for a tow truck out in the boonies.  

Note:  If you don't have standoffs you can place leveling blocks under the flat tire and drive up onto them.  Keep in mind that you have to lift the flat tire about 5 inches off the ground so make sure that somebody is outside directing you from a safe distance.  Once it is up make sure it is stable;  then you can use the jack under the axel to finish the job.  

Another last-resort method is to jack it up and then place the spare-tire under the flat;  use 1.5 by 8 by 17 inch or more board or leveling-block across the rim of the spare-tire if you have it so you don't damage the rim.  If you use the square, interlocking "Lego" type leveling blocks, place 1 or 2 of them in the center of the rim.  Then lower the rig onto the spare-tire to reposition the jack.  However, these methods are not nearly as safe as using standoffs. 

Also see Old Tires can KILL you!, Flat Tire? Use the Air Bag Compressor to fill it up and Spare Tire - Lowering and Raising.
Keep on Cruisin', Tom Heald
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Subject:  Spare Tire - Lowering and Raising
 
Tip:  There are two different systems used on the Aero Cruiser: an Electric Power Lift or a Manual crank.  Your rig will have one or the other, not both.

If your spare tire has a "Electric Power Lift" and you have no idea where the switch is that operates it, look inside the sewer access door.  The switch is hard to find so look around.  Keep in mind that the ignition switch must to be in the accessory mode to operate it.  It is located here so you can watch the tire as you raise it.  Stop raising the tire when it is just snug with the frame.  If you over do it you may burn the switch out.  (See Update below)

If your spare tire has a "Manual Lift" it cranks down using the lug-wrench for your wheels.  The end of the shaft is located by the trailer hitch in the rear of the rig.  Just look for the bolt head and crank it down or back up when you are done.  

In either case don't forget to give any bearing points a few squirts of oil from time to time.
Also see Old Tires can KILL you!, Flat Tire? Use the Air Bag Compressor to fill it up and Flat Tire - How to change it.
Keep on Cruisin', Tom Heald

Update on the Switch:  Changed my switch to lower and raise the spare last night. This switch (which is located behind the dump valve door, if equipped) is only activated with the ignition switch on.

My switch worked letting the tire down but not back up. This is a heavy duty three position switch. Momentary on (up) center (off) momentary on (down) with six spade terminals. Cole Hersee part # 55065-03.

The momentary on (up) contacts were fried and the reason would be that all the current to drive the spare tire raise and lower motor goes through this small switch. This pulls a large amount of amps in the up position. When someone raised the tire before, they held the switch in the up position too long and over heated the contacts in the switch.

To save the switch, lift the tire with the switch for 5 seconds, wait 10 seconds, then 5 seconds again, and wait again. Keep doing this until tire is just secure against the frame but no more.
Happy trails, Rod Michaelson
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Subject:  Fresh-Water Gauge
 
Tip:  Our digital tank gauges leave something to be desired. When only the bottom light (of 4) is lit, we might have as much as 1/3rd or 1/4th tank of fresh water, or we might have little or none left. If your fresh-water tank is visible, you can shine a light into it and see the water level. However, my tank is enclosed in walls, so I cannot see it. So, I decided to add a visual gauge next to the tank. I bought a tee to go in the line from the bottom of the tank to the water pump, an elbow, a 2-foot length of clear hose, and a plastic valve, all for less than $10. I ran the hose up one edge of the tank enclosure, all the way to the ceiling of the storage area (that supports our bed). Thus, the hose fills with water to the same level as the tank –– when the valve is open. The valve must be closed to be sure no water goes into the storage area if I get the tank too full, and to be sure the pump does not suck the water out of the gauge and then suck air rather than water. The valve must be open for a couple of seconds to allow the water level in the gauge to equalize with that in the tank. A white blind behind the hose makes the water in the tube very visible.  Another view of the gauge can be seen on the left side of the last picture in Water Pump Tip below
 Frank DeRemer
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Subject:  Water Pump Replacement 1
 
Tip:  The old water pump was a Shurflo unit from June 1988. The pump would never turn off unless you turned off switch above the stove in the kitchen area.
Changed to a new Flojet automatic multi fixture pump model 4406-143 type IV. Purchased from JC Whitney for a little over $80.

Now the pump only turns on upon demand and shuts off immediately when the demand is turned off. 35psi and 3.2gpm will give a good shower. 
 
The pump in a rear bath model fits under the closet.  [On other models the pump is under the bed next to the water tank.]  The old pump had the motor below the pump. Flojet says to place motor above the pump. To do this on the Aero Cruiser the four bolts that hold the pump to the motor have to be pulled out and the pump turned 180 degrees to get the flow going the correct direction.

Scale of 1 to 10 with 1 being easiest, this is a 2.
Happy trails
Rod Michaelson

Note:  On my 1990 Rear Bath model the pumps is located under the bed next to the water tank and darn hard to get to, so I cut a trap door in the bed platform -- with appropriate bracing etc -- to get easy access to it and the pluming around it.  See "Water System, access under Shower, Bed & Pump" for more information.
Keep on Cruisin', Tom Heald
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Subject:  Water Pump Replacement 2
 
Tip:  I found a used SHURflo SmartSensor water pump on eBay for a good price, so I decided to upgrade. This pump has a microprocessor that senses the slightest reduction in pressure and runs the pump only as fast as needed to keep the pressure up, rather than waiting until the pressure is below a threshold and hammering away to get it back up. This pump also has five chambers instead of three; it pushes 5.7 GPM rather than the 2.8 of the old pump. All that means a smoother, quieter delivery of more water “just like home”. Regular price at Camping World is $233.33; I got a five-year-old for $33.00.

Pictured in the middle is the old pump as installed by the prior owner of my rig.  Note that my system had an accumulator tank that smoothes out the operation of the pump: it flows longer between pumps. Notice also that all the tubing is rigid. That transmits the vibrations from the pump to everything around it. The installation instructions say to use flexible hose for 18 inches on each side to reduce that effect. (That improvement you can make for about $3 worth of hose.)

I made that improvement when I installed the new pump, as you can see next. Notice that I also added a recommended strainer to prevent any debris that gets into the fresh water tank from getting into the pump. I also added a Fresh-Water Gauge which can be seen on the left side of the last picture and is described in a separate tip.   I plan to update this article with a report of how it works, after I get some real experience with it.
 Frank DeRemer
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Subject: Recycling Grey Water
 
Tip:  Having upgraded my fresh-water pump to a SmartSensor, I used the old water pump for an experiment, which, if successful, will extend my dry-camping ability. I reasoned that it was a waste of fresh water to flush it down the toilet. Why not use grey water instead? That would both make my fresh water last longer and move some grey water into the black tank with each flush, thus making the grey tank last longer too. Furthermore, if the grey tank gets full and the black is not, which is usual for us, I could just do a continuous flush for a while to move more grey water into the black tank. It sounds like a win-win-win (fresh, grey, black). But will we like even a little grey water sitting in the toilet?

I bought (1) a tee to put in the drain line of the grey tank, before the dump valve, (2) a strainer to prevent any 
debris in the grey tank from getting into the pump, (3) a flexible hose to go to the pump and another (not shown above) to go to the toilet, and (4) the needed hose connectors. I mounted the pump (and the accumulator tank) under the floor between the tanks. I ran a line to the toilet (difficult to access), capped off the old supply line, and connected the toilet to the new line.

I cut out a 1-inch section of the grey dump line, removed the valve, glued in the tee, and replaced the dump valve. The picture 
on the right shows that the strainer is accessible for cleaning and replacement, just inside the small, contoured door above the dump valve.

Now, when I dump the tanks, I must clean the strainer and put a little fresh water in the grey tank for the first flush or two –– say, one gallon. I also plan to add enzymes to eat the emoluents; with every flush, they will be moved to the black tank where they are needed even more. After our first shower, we will have plenty of grey water for flushes. We will also have to be careful not to put coffee grounds and the like in the kitchen sink, but we have been doing that anyway. I hope, by fall of 2010, to tell you how the system works.
 Frank DeRemer

Update:  I have now been on a seven-day trip by myself and a five-day trip with Lynda.  I am very happy with the gray-water-recycling set-up.  I was surprised at how much fresh water it saves and how low it keeps the gray tank.  After seven days I still had half a tank of fresh water, and the gray water tank never showed more than one quarter full.  With both of us for five days, we used about 3/4 of the fresh and had about 1/2 gray at the end.  I find the toilet actually stays cleaner and is easier to swish out, as it always has slightly soapy water in it -- a surprising side benefit.  It was a noticeable improvement over last year's experience during our 40-day trip.
Frank DeRemer
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