All other components connected to the Truck Battery like the Air Pump and Wiring Panel or under the Front Hood and behind the Grill.
 

Click on the to go to its Tip:
	Engine Cooling - Air flow to the Radiator
	Ram-Air Cooling
	Coach Electrical Box            (off page link)
	Relays: Starter, A/C & ASD  (off page link)
	Starter Relay: Trouble Shouting Problems (off page link)
	Bad Connection in the Coach Electrical Box
	The White Vacuum line inside the Front Compartment
	Battery Isolator Sticking
	Air Bag Pump / Compressor
	Tire-Valve hooked up to the Air Bag Compressor. (off Page Link)

 

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Subject:  Ram-Air Cooling

Tip:  I tried some experiments with air coming in the grill, as have others in the club.  My theory was that the low pressure under the coach was pulling much of the air down before it could go through the radiator.  So I tried adding a floor and sides in the area in front of the radiator (not so relevant to the 1992 models, where the radiator is only inches behind the grill).  I even added a small scoop below the front bumper to provide air going over the added floor and into the radiator.  Surprisingly, although I noticed improved cooling with the floor and sides, I could block the scoop and see no difference at all.  Then I also added a floor behind the radiator, a wall above most of the radiator (leaving a few square inches open on each side for some fresh air to the top of the engine), and soft sides (sound-absorbing, heat reflecting material) along the sides of the motor.  This guides the air coming out of the radiator, and the fresh air above it on each side, along the exhaust manifolds and prevents the air from diving down before cooling the manifolds.

This system seems to work well.  I put my outdoor temperature probe at various places under the motor cover and watched the temperature as I drove.  The normal temperature at the rear of the motor, either side and in the middle at the distributor, seems to be about 100 degrees.  The air coming out of the radiator is normally about 140 degrees.  When climbing a hill, the temperature at the back of the engine rises to about 140.  Because of the insulation on the underside of the motor cover, the cover stays cool to the touch even under sustained power.
Frank DeRemer
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Subject:  Bad Connection in the Coach Electrical Box
 
Tip:  For several years and on random occasions the electric step would not function when the coach door was opened. Then, again on random occasions, the hydraulic jacks would not operate. Again randomly, the docking lights did not work. It took me a while to figure out that the common electrical connection for the step, jacks and lights was the upper fuse strip in the electrical box under the interior step. This strip is only “hot” when the engine is running. The real culprit was the lug on the black cable coming from the alternator to the start solenoid. The copper cable inside the lug had corroded and was not making constant contact. The solution, replaced the lug and so far it appears that this problem has been solved.
#215 Stahl
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Subject: The White Vacuum line inside the Front Compartment

Question:  There was a white either wire or vacuum line (just insulation left) that ran up the firewall inside the front compartment on the passenger side, that was completely destroyed. Its just hanging there split in two and I have no idea what it was.

Answer:  The White Vacuum line is user to control the vacuum solenoid on the bottom of the Heating and Air Conditioning Blower Assembly, that big black box on the passenger side with heating and air conditioning hoses connected to it. When you push the second button from the left (Max A/C) on the Heating and Air Conditioning control on the dashboard it activates the vacuum solenoid on the bottom of Blower Assembly. This seals of the external air and opens the internal air vent inside the passenger compartment.

I ran a new black rubber vacuum line from vacuum solenoid and spliced it to the smaller, thinner, more rigid white line under the dash.
Keep on Cruisin', Tom Heald
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Subject:  Battery Isolator Sticking
 
Tip:  Steve suggested checking the ground if you find your battery isolator solenoid sticking. Or, if you are like Rick, just hit it with a stick until it releases (not recommended).
#428 Corey
 
Update:  I have seen this condition where my batteries were dead because they were no charging, however, I don't understand either comment. The Battery Isolator is a solid-state device two diodes in a sealed unit.  Its job is to allow current to flow from the alternator to each battery while stopping any flow between the House Battery and the Truck Battery circuits. There is nothing to stick and there is no ground except at the batteries.  

When I had this problem, I checked the voltage and had 14 volts coming into the center post; however, the battery sides showed low voltages -- 10 or so volts indicating a dead battery.  I charged the batteries and they held there charge.  I drove it around and then checked again.  Everything worked ok and did no give me any more problems.  My conclusion.  There must have a been a bad connection inside the Battery Isolator which is a sealed unit.  See -- Battery Isolator, Troubleshooting and Replacement -- for more information.
Keep on Cruisin', Tom Heald
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Subject:  Air Bag Pump / Compressor
 
Tip 1:  29’ coaches have Granning suspension for the tag axle and they used Thomas compressor part No. 315CDC45/12-276 which can be purchased through a Firestone dealer.

Rick has a yet to find the air leak which he will tell us about in the future.
#101 Krafft

Update:  My poor old air bag pump was pooped out. It blows, and blows but can’t get those air bags up! I feel like that sometimes myself! Anyway, I digress, I checked with Granning Air Systems and was told where I could get a new one. The cost, however, was over $300.00. Being the frugal person I am, I started looking for a more economical solution. Pep Boys Auto Supply had a heavy duty, 12-volt air compressor by Master Flo, model number MF1050. After removing the 3 bolts holding the old air compressor, I mounted the new one. It matched the existing air tube fittings. Now the new one will totally inflate the bags and fill the tank in less than 5 minutes. I also reduced the cut-out pressure on the pressure switch to shut off the compressor at 95 psi instead of 110 psi Granning factory setting. I’m sooooo proud of myself!
#101 Krafft

Tip 2:  On the 23’ coaches, the Firestone Ride Rite Helper Springs air compressor part number is 21-9004. Note: Once the pressure reaches 100 psi, the pressure switch will turn the compressor off. It will not restart until the pressure drops to 70
psi. The compressor requires a 15 amp fuse. Firestone Industrial Products
317/773-0650
J. D. 88-1989-23 foot
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